Dan Lederer| Newport Daily News
Do you think they used to have “taco nights” at the mansions along Bellevue?
My idea of living a “Gilded Life” is having tacos whenever you want them. But tacos at the mansions? Probably not. Tacos weren’t introduced into America until the beginning of the 20th century, brought by Mexican immigrants crossing the border, a far cry from the shores of Newport.
But it’s fun to imagine Doris Duke or even ol’ Cornelius Vanderbilt scooping extra guacamole onto their over-stuffed ground beef taco as they elegantly dined with their aristocratic friends in their famed dining halls of distinction.
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If Doris or Cornelius were alive today, they’d probably be pretty stoked to see Cinco de Mayo is on the way. Cinco de Mayo is a holiday in Mexico that celebrates a victory over the French in the Battle of Puebla. While it is observed in Mexico, it has become a bigger celebration in the United States (not unlike how we celebrate St. Patrick’s Day here versus Ireland).
I’d like to think that it is a day in which we take the time to appreciate the culture and heritage of our neighbors to the south, but in reality, it has become an excuse to drink margaritas on a random Wednesday in May. That said, Cinco de Mayo is still a good opportunity to appreciate the influence Mexico has had on our food culture.
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This includes Rhode Island. Doris and Corny would be tickled pink about all the options available to us locally today.
You have to start your Aquidneck Island Mexican food tour with Tito’s Cantina on West Main in Middletown. It's been there since 1989, serving the classics (nachos, tacos, enchiladas, chimichangas, burritos and fajitas) for more than 30 years. That’s a lot of salsa. It’s the kind of food we’ve come to expect at a Mexican restaurant, though most of it has been heavily changed to appease American taste buds.
Tito’s knows what it's doing, and it'salways a good spot when you’re craving fresh-made Mexican food. Plus, it serves up excellent margaritas!
If more authentic Mexican is your thing, head downtown to Perro Salada. Tucked away on Charles Street in an 18th century house, Perro Salada offers inspired takes on all your favorites. Start off with some Queso Fondita, then move on to the Chicken Tinga. Complement your dinner with one of the vertical or horizontal tequila flights. And if you are just out for drinks, enjoying a frothy margarita in the outdoor garden is a Newport rite of summer.
Diego’s is another downtown classic and, if you are looking for a fun location, you’ve found it. Nestled in on Bowen’s Wharf, the menu is on the authentic side, too, but with modern and local influences like Seared Tuna Tostadas and Guac del Mar made with lump crabmeat.And its drink selection is equally inspired, featuring tequila, mezcal and house-made sangrias.
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Its home on the wharf is a spot to be seen, but if you don’t feel like going downtown, you always have their sister location on Aquidneck Avenue, Diego’s Barrio Cantina. The menu there highlights creative tacos, burritos and tortas alongside an impressive cocktail menu. It’s a great for take home, too, with easy pickup!
If we are talking burritos, we’d be remiss not to mention Chipotle’s in Middletown. Yes, it’s part of a national chain, but you can’t take away its influence on the popularization of handheld, overstuffed burritos. It still makes good, reliable food.
And if you like Chipotle’s, you will also like Salsa’s Burrito Grill in Portsmouth. In fact, if you like authentic flavors and preparation, then you’ll like Salsa’s even more. Slow-roasted carnitas and freshly made salsa make for tasty burritos. And don’t forget the flan for dessert! In Newport, you can find Salsa's sister restaurant Tijuana’s Burrito Grill on Broadway offering burritos, tacos and bowls, too.
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If you are on Broadway, don’t miss out on Leo’s Market. A shop specializing in Brazilian & Latin American products, it also has a restaurant making fresh-made favorites like tacos and burritos, but also churrasco, empanadas and papusas. You can taste the authenticity. Easy to pass by, be sure to check out this hidden gem.
Don’t forget La Vecina, too. A pop-up restaurant featured at Bar ‘Cino over the winter, it will be opening a permanent home in Washington Square in June. In the spirit of a taqueria, it will be serving great street tacos and tamales. Let’s hope it brings back the Street Corn Style Squash and Mushroom taco — that’s one taste you won’t stop thinking about.
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If you need your street tacos to come from a food truck, look for the colorful La Costa truck around town. Nachos, authentic street corn and well-crafted tacos will give you the flavors you’ve been craving. Plus it offers lobster rolls, too. The truck will be at Newport Craft Brewing, Greenvale Vineyard and Brenton Point this weekend.
Let’s mention Taco Bell, too. No, not authentic. Yes, fast food. But if you have a taco craving and need a quick fix, it’s definitely there.
If you want to venture to Bristol, there’s Nacho Mama’s for fresh burritos, chimichangas and tacos at the walk-up counter.There’s also Casa Margaritas for more traditional sit-down Mexican fare like enchiladas, chimichangas and exceptional homemade salsa.
If you want to be festive this Cinco de Mayo, make sure you make a plan to get some kind of tortilla on your plate. Get in the holiday spirit with salsa and margaritas, too! With so many great options available, all your yens can be satisfied. As Doris and Cornelius would surely agree, we’re living in the Gilded Age of tacos.
Dan Lederer is a Middletown resident with 30 years experience in the food service industry throughout New England. He continues to work locally behind the scenes within the industry and remains a devoted fan of all things restaurant and hospitality related. His column appears on newportri.com and Thursdays in The Daily News. Cheers!
